Yesterday I fabricated 4 chickens. That is to say I cut them up into their usual pieces (with the exception of an "Airline" breast which has the wing drummette on it... a very strange portion of chicken - I think I have seen it... once.) My best time in chicken fabrication was 9 minutes. This morning I plan on shattering that record... after I have had at least 2 Americanos :-] That smacks of drug enhanced performance, doesn't it? Happily, as far as I know, caffeine has not been banned from the kitchen! I understand some chefs have friendly wagers regarding chicken fabrication speed. Hmmm... I'll take on anyone in the speed- trussing category, but knife speed?... not so much. I have never had so many nicks and cuts on my poor little (or should I say elegant - I was tempted to say "big") hands! There are some ways of using a knife that are so ingrained into one after years of incorrect use that trying to hold that dangerous tool any other way seems clumsy and inefficient. I will say that here on this blog, but not in class. Chef's are not particularly amenable to excuses for poor technique.
Thursday's class was veal and chicken, but the stars were the Black Quinoa Pilaf and Sun-dried Tomato Cream Sauce. I have not been much of a quinoa fan, but mixed with the rice it was delicious - the bacon didn't hurt either ;-] - other ingredients were: onion, carrot, red bell pepper - simmered of course in chicken stock, with green onions and peas to finish. Now that is healthy eating I can wrap my head around! The cream sauce is just what it sounds like - cream, wine (of course) and sun-dried tomatoes.
Tuesday is fish... hmm... I wonder what the sauces will be. I know, you think I only care about the sauces. I do like fish, really I do... generally speaking. Can I just say it smells bad to produce - when you have cut it up and prepped it, the general smell lingers on your apron and coat... even after a short time it is not so pleasant an aroma and just think what you smell like by the end of the day. After these classes I shall purchase fish fully fabricated in a lovely brown wrapped parcel ready to go straight into the pan - after seasonings of course.
Please feel free to comment on my facebook page or here on the blog and let me know if you are craving more information regarding recipes or ingredients. For those who live near me I am going to have a Saturday class in chicken fabrication and other general knife skills - Free for those who can laugh, have a good time, and wield a knife safely! Barn-yard fowl beware!
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Saturday, January 29, 2011
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
"You don't drown by falling in the water. You drown by staying there."
Yes, unfortunately for you the reader, another final is coming up. Knife skills, 100+ questions of written testing, and a "Market Basket" cooking test. So, I find myself searching for hope and encouragement that I can conquer and overcome my fear.
It seems silly to fear knife skills tests and market basket challenges... I have cut up a chicken before - many times... I cook dinner frequently based on what is in the refrigerator or pantry. My fear stems from a few things: 1. Fine dining chef's will be critiquing my plate on presentation, taste and technique. 2. I will need to incorporate into my offering the things I have learned over the past few weeks so that the chef recognizes that I have learned what he was teaching. 3. I have choked on knife skills in the past. 4. The written tests are hard even if you have extensive notes. Now that I have stated my fears, I shall let them go and ride on the wind.
From today on I will strategize and study, plan and practice. I will have confidence in what I have learned and my ability to regroup from kitchen catastrophes'. I will think on the good and positive. As it says in Phillipians: "Summing it all up, friends, I'd say you'll do best by filling your minds and meditating on things true, noble, reputable, authentic, compelling, gracious—the best, not the worst; the beautiful, not the ugly; things to praise, not things to curse."
Can someone remind me I said this please!
It seems silly to fear knife skills tests and market basket challenges... I have cut up a chicken before - many times... I cook dinner frequently based on what is in the refrigerator or pantry. My fear stems from a few things: 1. Fine dining chef's will be critiquing my plate on presentation, taste and technique. 2. I will need to incorporate into my offering the things I have learned over the past few weeks so that the chef recognizes that I have learned what he was teaching. 3. I have choked on knife skills in the past. 4. The written tests are hard even if you have extensive notes. Now that I have stated my fears, I shall let them go and ride on the wind.
From today on I will strategize and study, plan and practice. I will have confidence in what I have learned and my ability to regroup from kitchen catastrophes'. I will think on the good and positive. As it says in Phillipians: "Summing it all up, friends, I'd say you'll do best by filling your minds and meditating on things true, noble, reputable, authentic, compelling, gracious—the best, not the worst; the beautiful, not the ugly; things to praise, not things to curse."
Can someone remind me I said this please!
Never say, "oops." Always say, "Ah, interesting."
In looking for a quote for the title of this post I found myself in a sea of delightful comments regarding mistakes. This is of great appeal to me since I spend a good amount of time fixing mistakes... my mistakes. My family says that one of my great strengths in the kitchen is the ability to save my dishes from disaster. I am not particularly proud of this reputation but, at times, it has it's rewards.
Case in Point: Thursday, we made beef dishes - Filet, Chateaubriand, Short ribs, New York steak, and Braised Short Ribs of Beef. I was responsible for the Roqueford Demi-Glace, which was to accompany the Filet. I needed to make the Demi-Glace first, but we had no Espanole (remember the Mother Sauce.) The strategy was to do a shortened version of that 2 hour sauce. Then add more veal stock and reduce to a demi-glace. The tomato paste was my downfall. In trying to incorporate the 2 recipes together I didn't pay attention to volumes and ended up with too much of that darned red paste, which made a VERY red sauce. Big Mistake! So, I called the Chef over and he said (don't forget the Parisienne accent), "It is too red; there is too much tomato paste. You must start again." WHAT? I rarely start again. So, I said, "How about I take 3/4 of this sauce and save it and add beef stock to the remaining 1/4, then reduce it for the demi-glace." He liked it and said, "Yes, and we can use this tomato sauce for the short ribs." "Exactly what I was thinking!", said I. In my humble opinion it was a lovely addition to the Braised Short Ribs.
I don't know if the chef thinks I am hopeless or inventive... I am what I am. Except when I am trying to be a better version of myself. :-]
Case in Point: Thursday, we made beef dishes - Filet, Chateaubriand, Short ribs, New York steak, and Braised Short Ribs of Beef. I was responsible for the Roqueford Demi-Glace, which was to accompany the Filet. I needed to make the Demi-Glace first, but we had no Espanole (remember the Mother Sauce.) The strategy was to do a shortened version of that 2 hour sauce. Then add more veal stock and reduce to a demi-glace. The tomato paste was my downfall. In trying to incorporate the 2 recipes together I didn't pay attention to volumes and ended up with too much of that darned red paste, which made a VERY red sauce. Big Mistake! So, I called the Chef over and he said (don't forget the Parisienne accent), "It is too red; there is too much tomato paste. You must start again." WHAT? I rarely start again. So, I said, "How about I take 3/4 of this sauce and save it and add beef stock to the remaining 1/4, then reduce it for the demi-glace." He liked it and said, "Yes, and we can use this tomato sauce for the short ribs." "Exactly what I was thinking!", said I. In my humble opinion it was a lovely addition to the Braised Short Ribs.
I don't know if the chef thinks I am hopeless or inventive... I am what I am. Except when I am trying to be a better version of myself. :-]
Friday, January 14, 2011
Let my words, like vegetables, be tender and sweet, for tomorrow I may have to eat them.
Cuisine II started with vegetables. Asparagus with... you guessed it - HOLLANDAISE! Am I never to be free from that mother sauce?
We changed partners for Cuisine II and I find myself in the back row trying to understand what the French chef is saying with all the pots clanging and the water running and the induction stoves making their humming sound. I have taken to watching some of my favorite movies in French, hoping that the language sounds will become more natural to my ear... really who does crazy things like that??
More importantly, here are some things I learned: Green vegetables have Clorophyll (shocking) and want to be cooked or blanched in salted water to retain color. Orange or yellow vegetables have Carotene (not new news) and although their color is not affected by acid, they retain firmness with salted water. Vegetables which are white or purple - Flavanoids (did not know this term) - want acid in their water so they keep their color integrity. When blanching don't forget the ice water bath to stop cooking.
The best dish of Tuesday was a cauliflower gratin - we simply blanched cauliflower in acidic water (lemon juice), sauced it with a Mornay and then added more Gruyere on the top - finished in the oven until brown. Wow. We did make onion rings with a bbq dipping sauce - not bad either. I can do without vegetable brochettes (kabobs). Do you see a theme here? I must figure out how to make healthy styled vegetables and like them.
Thursday's best dish might be the braised belgium endive. Endive cut in half lengthwise; sauteed in olive oil and butter (of course), we added fresh squeezed orange juice and reduced it - added a julienne fin of orange zest and chicken broth, and braised it... you guessed it, until it was done ; plated the endive, reduced the sauce and poured it over the plated endive - really, very good. We also made Ratatouille - I have never met a Ratatouille I liked. We even served it in a parmesean bowl... not impressed. The cabbage rolls in Asian dipping sauce were delightful - but even the chef said "The sauce makes the dish." (I overcooked the cabbage leaves and had to redo them - usually I can salvage my mistakes, but I decided when thinking of time and cost I should toss them and give it another try... smart move in the long-run)
News Flash: I drove all the way home last night in one lane (once I got on the 5 :-] ). It took me 50 minutes to get home, but I just cruised (generally speaking ;-]) and pretended that it didn't matter that the lane next to me seemed to be going faster than I.
We changed partners for Cuisine II and I find myself in the back row trying to understand what the French chef is saying with all the pots clanging and the water running and the induction stoves making their humming sound. I have taken to watching some of my favorite movies in French, hoping that the language sounds will become more natural to my ear... really who does crazy things like that??
More importantly, here are some things I learned: Green vegetables have Clorophyll (shocking) and want to be cooked or blanched in salted water to retain color. Orange or yellow vegetables have Carotene (not new news) and although their color is not affected by acid, they retain firmness with salted water. Vegetables which are white or purple - Flavanoids (did not know this term) - want acid in their water so they keep their color integrity. When blanching don't forget the ice water bath to stop cooking.
The best dish of Tuesday was a cauliflower gratin - we simply blanched cauliflower in acidic water (lemon juice), sauced it with a Mornay and then added more Gruyere on the top - finished in the oven until brown. Wow. We did make onion rings with a bbq dipping sauce - not bad either. I can do without vegetable brochettes (kabobs). Do you see a theme here? I must figure out how to make healthy styled vegetables and like them.
Thursday's best dish might be the braised belgium endive. Endive cut in half lengthwise; sauteed in olive oil and butter (of course), we added fresh squeezed orange juice and reduced it - added a julienne fin of orange zest and chicken broth, and braised it... you guessed it, until it was done ; plated the endive, reduced the sauce and poured it over the plated endive - really, very good. We also made Ratatouille - I have never met a Ratatouille I liked. We even served it in a parmesean bowl... not impressed. The cabbage rolls in Asian dipping sauce were delightful - but even the chef said "The sauce makes the dish." (I overcooked the cabbage leaves and had to redo them - usually I can salvage my mistakes, but I decided when thinking of time and cost I should toss them and give it another try... smart move in the long-run)
News Flash: I drove all the way home last night in one lane (once I got on the 5 :-] ). It took me 50 minutes to get home, but I just cruised (generally speaking ;-]) and pretended that it didn't matter that the lane next to me seemed to be going faster than I.
Saturday, January 8, 2011
"Noncooks think it's silly to invest two hours' work in two minutes' enjoyment; but if cooking is evanescent, so is the ballet."
It is true - time makes the sauce. Why was the Cioppino so good? Because we used a Mother Sauce - the Tomato which we made in class. It simmered for one and a half hours. Tomato Sauce is made from salt pork, mirepoix, tomatoes, tomato puree, white stock (any meat/chicken un-carmelized), pork bones and a sachet of thyme, bay leaves, garlic, parsley stems and peppercorns. The usual order is followed - render pork; add mirepoix (sweat); add tomatoes, the puree, the sachet, salt and sugar (just a smidge); add stock and bones and simmer slowly for 1-2 hours. Remove bones and pass through a food mill. For the Cioppino we sauteed onion, celery, red bell pepper, fennel, leek and garlic - deglazed with wine. Added fish stock or clam juice, and The Tomato Sauce with bay leaf and simmer 15 minutes. Add some chopped tomatoes and simmer 5 more minutes. Then comes the seafood - added according to cooking time. Finish with worcestershire, and lemon juice - salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with parsley and basil. You will notice from the picture we had crostini with a homemade aioli... my mouth is watering and it is early morning.
To re-cap Thursday's class it went something like this: 8AM - meet around the demo table for our marching orders - 5 sauces in 4 hours... do-able. The Bechamel, The Veloute, The Demi-Glace (actually made from The Espanole which had to be made first and simmers one and a half hours), and The Tomato. All these made in teams of two. The Hollandaise to be made individually. We then present our finished product to the Chef for evaluation on taste, texture, consistency, etc. Three of these sauces cook at least one and a half hours and then must be finished. We concluded our sauces at around 11AM, at which time I launched into my Hollandaise... we are not friends, me and the hollandaise. Suffice it to say, I restored my "broken" hollandaise and submitted it to the Chef. He loved the flavor and the texture was good. The need for truth compels me to admit that I made a few attempts on the hollandaise. I hate the hollandaise, we are mortal enemies.
The afternoon proceeded along these lines: 12:30PM - gather for the afternoon directive - Creole sauce from our Tomato Sauce, Mornay from our Bechamel, Supreme from our Veloute, Bordolaise from our Demi-Glace, and a Buerre Blanc. All made individually. Honestly, this was easiest for me. These "small sauces" are not difficult, but rely on flavor and texture and the proper technique in making a roux. I did well with every sauce, but he thought my Supreme sauce was a little thin. I finished with the small sauces in good order and decided to take the Buerre Blanc nice and slow (which is always a good idea when swirling butter into a reduction of wine, vinegar and shallots). It really was lovely, and I used less vinegar and more wine (because I knew the chef liked that flavor better). A very good way to end a day of testing! We were all headed home by 4PM.
Ron and I celebrated by going out to dinner ( I had a gift card!) and a movie - The King's Speech (which was amazing - go see it). Cuisine II here I come!
To re-cap Thursday's class it went something like this: 8AM - meet around the demo table for our marching orders - 5 sauces in 4 hours... do-able. The Bechamel, The Veloute, The Demi-Glace (actually made from The Espanole which had to be made first and simmers one and a half hours), and The Tomato. All these made in teams of two. The Hollandaise to be made individually. We then present our finished product to the Chef for evaluation on taste, texture, consistency, etc. Three of these sauces cook at least one and a half hours and then must be finished. We concluded our sauces at around 11AM, at which time I launched into my Hollandaise... we are not friends, me and the hollandaise. Suffice it to say, I restored my "broken" hollandaise and submitted it to the Chef. He loved the flavor and the texture was good. The need for truth compels me to admit that I made a few attempts on the hollandaise. I hate the hollandaise, we are mortal enemies.
The afternoon proceeded along these lines: 12:30PM - gather for the afternoon directive - Creole sauce from our Tomato Sauce, Mornay from our Bechamel, Supreme from our Veloute, Bordolaise from our Demi-Glace, and a Buerre Blanc. All made individually. Honestly, this was easiest for me. These "small sauces" are not difficult, but rely on flavor and texture and the proper technique in making a roux. I did well with every sauce, but he thought my Supreme sauce was a little thin. I finished with the small sauces in good order and decided to take the Buerre Blanc nice and slow (which is always a good idea when swirling butter into a reduction of wine, vinegar and shallots). It really was lovely, and I used less vinegar and more wine (because I knew the chef liked that flavor better). A very good way to end a day of testing! We were all headed home by 4PM.
Ron and I celebrated by going out to dinner ( I had a gift card!) and a movie - The King's Speech (which was amazing - go see it). Cuisine II here I come!
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
"Now take a bite of this....No, no don't just hork it down"
Cioppino - it's easy to "hork" down... because it is soo good! That was our culinary experience and treat at the end of a busy day at school on Tuesday.
My knife skills were fair... I'm sorry to say I choked a little, but I try to remind myself that was my first "practical" exam so hopefully I will improve my performance under pressure. The written exam was... interesting. 85% was the highest grade in the class. Needless to say most were not happy with their score - neither was the person who scored 85%! Culinary school is not for the faint of heart - only the strong survive - "Ferryman ho! In the night so black Hark to the clank of iron; 'Tis heroes of the Yser, 'Tis sweethearts of glory, 'Tis lads who are unafraid! Ferryman ho!"... "Hail, ye heroes! heaven-born band! Who fought and bled in Freedom's cause."... "When the will defies fear, when duty throws the gauntlet down to fate, when honor scorns to compromise with death"... This is war! (Wow, my adrenaline is pumping now.)
After all the testing we took a break and I introduced myself to someone from another class who was milling around in the... okay, in the ladies room where girl-talk thrives - her class is about 6 weeks ahead of our class. I inquired as to how she enjoyed Cuisine II... I think she was an unhappy person. She never smiled; she rolled her eyes; she looked with great pity on me and all she said was "good luck." Really? No, I mean REALLY?? I shall not be discouraged and will yet remember what a great American president once said "The future does not belong to the faint-
hearted; it belongs to the brave."
(Sighing) All that talk of battle and conflict and conquering took a lot of energy... I will close with a picture of the deliciousness won at the dying of the day. :-]
My knife skills were fair... I'm sorry to say I choked a little, but I try to remind myself that was my first "practical" exam so hopefully I will improve my performance under pressure. The written exam was... interesting. 85% was the highest grade in the class. Needless to say most were not happy with their score - neither was the person who scored 85%! Culinary school is not for the faint of heart - only the strong survive - "Ferryman ho! In the night so black Hark to the clank of iron; 'Tis heroes of the Yser, 'Tis sweethearts of glory, 'Tis lads who are unafraid! Ferryman ho!"... "Hail, ye heroes! heaven-born band! Who fought and bled in Freedom's cause."... "When the will defies fear, when duty throws the gauntlet down to fate, when honor scorns to compromise with death"... This is war! (Wow, my adrenaline is pumping now.)
After all the testing we took a break and I introduced myself to someone from another class who was milling around in the... okay, in the ladies room where girl-talk thrives - her class is about 6 weeks ahead of our class. I inquired as to how she enjoyed Cuisine II... I think she was an unhappy person. She never smiled; she rolled her eyes; she looked with great pity on me and all she said was "good luck." Really? No, I mean REALLY?? I shall not be discouraged and will yet remember what a great American president once said "The future does not belong to the faint-
hearted; it belongs to the brave."
Sunday, January 2, 2011
“In examining the potential of individuals, we must focus on their strengths and not just their mistakes. We cannot be limited by what they may have spilled in the kitchen.”
My last post ending was quite abrupt. Which felt like my life at the time. On the 23rd of December I fell off the cliff - in a matter of speaking. Exhausted from a long day at school making chutneys and chowders, pureed and cream soups I headed home anticipating our Christmas guests who had already arrived! I love having family at Christmas and I had a house full. I went over the edge simply because I had to be at work the next morning at 7AM - Christmas eve. I had nothing prepared for our tree trimming party on the 24th or the full plan for Christmas day dinner or my son's birthday celebration on the 26th. People would have pitched in and helped, but you see it was my responsibility. I regrouped with the kind help of my loving husband and my sweet daughter, and asked for my work schedule to be cut back significantly.
When I begin something new there is a significant amount of self-scrutiny that accompanies the activity. Truly, it is exhausting. I analyze my abilities to cope, to succeed, to excel. I do believe as my young classmate observed, I am an overachiever. My plan for the new year ( I HATE resolutions, because I usually cannot keep them) is to release the overachiever without losing the aspirant I can be.
Yes, Tuesday is the knife skills final and the written final over 4 chapters - Knife Skills, Mis En Place, Stocks & Sauces and Soups. In preparation for the practical knife skills test, I have julienned, diced, brunoised and batonned for days. They are not perfect, but they are the best I can do... and that is enough. I have made extensive notes and reviewed questions on each chapter - I can do no more... it is enough.
I still have a couple more days to work on my Hollandaise - because I certainly have not done enough. ;-]
Today's post was a little esoteric, but part of this process I call culinary school. Stay tuned for knife skills test results!
When I begin something new there is a significant amount of self-scrutiny that accompanies the activity. Truly, it is exhausting. I analyze my abilities to cope, to succeed, to excel. I do believe as my young classmate observed, I am an overachiever. My plan for the new year ( I HATE resolutions, because I usually cannot keep them) is to release the overachiever without losing the aspirant I can be.
Yes, Tuesday is the knife skills final and the written final over 4 chapters - Knife Skills, Mis En Place, Stocks & Sauces and Soups. In preparation for the practical knife skills test, I have julienned, diced, brunoised and batonned for days. They are not perfect, but they are the best I can do... and that is enough. I have made extensive notes and reviewed questions on each chapter - I can do no more... it is enough.
I still have a couple more days to work on my Hollandaise - because I certainly have not done enough. ;-]
Today's post was a little esoteric, but part of this process I call culinary school. Stay tuned for knife skills test results!
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